2024-01-27 16:18:48
Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata, literally "ice-mountain-father",Altitude of 7546m, It is sometimes regarded
as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamirs.It is also one of
the relatively easier 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively
drier weather of Xinjiang, though a thorough acclimatization period and a very strong physical condition are
crucial for success.
Location
Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. Together they form a
somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir
Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the "Chinese Pamir", and are more
closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this
group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes
very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest
city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.
History
The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in
1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the lastby the team of Eric Shipton and Bill
Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.
The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge,
which is now the standard route.
Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made
a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent
of the much harder southeast ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain
was first climbed in the summer of 2005. Swedish Anneli Wester camped on the summit in 2011 after climbing
the mountain solo and in alpine style.